I am fascinated by how the everyday expressions of a country reflect it’s most important interests – in the US pulling the trigger on a decision, in Australia, dropping the ball.
As the months move on, seasonal foods make their appearance. Just in time we’ve swapped fruit mince tarts for hot cross buns – though with all the chocolate that seems to be added I’d prefer to call them hot, irritable buns.
We’ve just driven back from one of my favourite spots in Australia – the Thredbo Valley. It was the perfect time of year. We stayed at Tinkersfield, a place we have been going to for decades, once the location of the old local post office.
We had lunch (and bought their gin) as we always do, just down the road at Wild Brumby Distillery. Canberra is placed at the epi-centre of Sydney, the Snowy Mountains and the South Coast, which makes it easy to drive anywhere.
An old friend came to lunch the week before we went away and we had an extended catchup. The last time I had seen her was at the memorial for a mentor of mine in Adelaide late last year, in a time when so many of our mutual friends have finally been dying or developing debilitating illnesses.
On this trip she had driven over from Adelaide with an old friend of hers. They came to our place and her friend mentioned that I probably wouldn’t remember her, but that we had met long before I had moved to Canberra.
Later I realised that I certainly remembered her. In fact I’d met her several times, a very long time ago. The second time, she had just been diagnosed with breast cancer, at the time a far grimmer diagnosis than is generally the case now. What was disconcerting was that for decades I thought she must have died. Instead I discovered that she has survived and was living healthily and happily. It was as if the universe had suddenly given someone back.
You go through life believing something is a certain way and many decades later find you had it all wrong and all along the reality was the exact opposite. I used to think that Port Adelaide was oriented a certain way after a quick tour in the dark and then many years later discovered it pointed in the opposite direction. I had also been convinced my whole life that you shouldn’t swim for an hour after a meal – and then heard on a television quiz program that it was all a lie.
Life in an art gallery
In an episode of Grand Designs, the television program about striking houses, someone commented that inhabiting a modernist house would be like living in an art gallery. I thought ‘I’d like to live in an art gallery’. Now we were back home, it was time to return to furnishing our home, with it’s mixture, as I describe it, of mid-century modern and French Empire.
One, by noted artist Andrew Hill, was from a project in 1984 called ‘All our working lives’, from my time as Arts Officer for the Trades and Labor Council of SA during its Centenary. It had been lying under our spare bed in the guest room, but we finally decided to get it framed after all those decades and cities.
At the framers I noticed a striking work that had just been finished leaning against the wall and turned it over to find out more about it. I was taken aback to see it was from Artists of Ampilatwatja [pron. um-bloody-watch], an Indigenous art centre North-East of Alice Springs on Alyawarr country. It’s by no means one of the best known art centres, but I have a painting from it.
When I was working in the research unit of the Department of Communications I travelled to the Northern Territory with Brian Kennedy on his final project in Australia after he finished up as Director of the National Gallery. He knew the Indigenous art centres like the back of his hand and we visited an outlet for Artists of Ampilatwatja in Alice Springs, where I was really taken with one painting by artist Doris Elkdra. I ended up buying it and it has been with me ever since.
‘I’ve made a couple of big decisions. I’ve decided that it’s better to be a Chardonnay socialist than a Riesling reactionary. I’ve also decided that given the state of the world – despite all the good things going on that we never hear about, it seems to be balancing between mediocrity, incompetence and plain greed and lust for power – I’m never leaving home again…well, except to travel’, I'm never leaving home again – well, except to travel.
‘For some reason Christmas reminds me of a play by Jean-Paul Sartre called ‘Huis Clos’, named after the French equivalent of an in camera trial or closed courtroom. It’s about three people who have died, locked together awaiting judgement in a crowded room for eternity. It’s the origin of Sartre’s famous line ‘hell is other people’. But it’s not the idea of hell that Christmas reminds me of, but the fact that at Christmas, especially on Boxing Day, the world suddenly lurches to a halt’, Lurching to a halt at the end of the year.
‘The little city that serves Australia as a capital is tucked up in the mountains far from any coastline, even though in a strange historical quirk it actually has a coastline at Jervis Bay. Yet to reach the South Coast of New South Wales, below the swollen city where Australia’s official European history began, takes hardly any time at all. It’s much more drawn out heading down the coast from Sydney, through the great Sydney sprawl past Wollongong and beyond. The South Coast is an entirely different universe to the capital’, A different universe lapped by waves.
Walking with ghosts
‘Increasingly people I have known for a long time seem to be dying. In fact my generation is steadily starting to disappear. Who is replacing them? We shuffle along in a world that is unravelling, a world – that for both good and bad – our generation gave birth to. We are teetering in a strange balance between building on the achievements of the past and desperately trying to dismantle them. In many countries, the current generation is poorer than the previous one, upending generations of dreams by working class parents and migrants for a better life for their children. In this time of upheaval – both welcome and unwelcome – creativity is needed like never before’, Walking with ghosts.
I'm on the road again – well, on the rails again. On Monday I caught the slow train from Canberra to Sydney, and today I’ve woken up to a third morning in Surry Hills. I’m enjoying the days in Sydney – after all, I did live here for twelve and a half years. I’m mainly here to see the Yolngu Power exhibition at the Art Gallery of NSW, which finishes next week, but I’m also using the trip to see to other business’, On the rails again – a trip about the past and the future.
‘I see the latest report on looming climate change has some pretty dire predictions – like a future of four times the length of heatwaves, up to five times as many deaths due to extreme heat, a massive drag on productivity, 1.5 million Australians at risk of coastal flooding and a potential half trillion dollar hit to property values by 20250 – and that’s just the good news’, Looking down on dire predictions.
‘From time to time my posts on ‘travelling light’ include references to restaurants we have eaten at or enjoyable places we have stayed. However, most of my regular writing about food, produce, restaurants and places we have stayed is on one of my blogs, tableland, which I describe as: ‘Food and cooking land to table – the daily routine of living in the high country, on the edge of the vast Pacific, just up from Sydney, just down from Mount Kosciuszko’, Essen, trinken, tanzen – aber nicht rauchen.
‘In winter my mind turns to food, but since it is never turned away from art, cooking and looking manage to fill in the cooler months – or maybe that’s all months. I haven’t made hand-made pasta for a while but I have made sushi and sashimi – though only once in recent memory – as I resurrect all my food traditions. Cooking, eating and cruising around art exhibitions – that’s winter for me’, Cooking minestrone in an art gallery - pineapple fruit cake, hot soup and art on a cold day









